Before
I left for New Orleans I was telling friends and neighbors of my plans.
"Are
you going to Eat at Mother's?"
"I
bet you can't wait to taste some Jambalaya."
"There's
a place on Bourbon where you can get a Hurricane and next door some Sweet
Potato Fries just covered in powdered sugar, please have it for me."
No,
No, a thousand times no.
New
Orleans is guilty of feeding some garbage food to tourists and the tourists
are guilty of loving it and going all over the internet screaming the
authenticity of the overpriced Jambalaya they had on Bourbon Street. I once
wrote about the bad food done in New Orleans name outside of New Orleans. The
bad food has also infiltrated the Quarter.
Here
are a few common sense tips to eating in New Orleans.
If the
sign says 'voted the best" or "authentic" run away.
Most
of the places guilty of food fraud
are in the quarter, there is even a place in the French Market offering
'authentic Cajun Tacos.'
There
are exceptions like Galatoires, Johnny's and Central Grocery however you should
do most of your dining outside of the quarter.
My
first night I was out on Loyola and decided to walk towards the quarter. I had
no destination in mind. I stopped into the Old Roosevelt and got a glass of
wine and a plate of broiled yosters with tarragon and garlic butter. It was
served with the soft French Bread New Orleans is Famous for.
This
hotel has several dining options, not all recommended, but the Fountain Lounge
has wonderful food.
The
next morning I had a light breakfast at 8 Block in the Hyatt on Loyala. The
light fare has more than enough food and excellent smoked fish and fruit along
with strong coffee gave me a great start.
I did
not want to eat too much, as a friend was picking me up in a few hours to go to
Elizabeth's out on Gallier. Chef Byron Peck presides now that Heidi Trull has
moved on to Grits and Groceries in South Carolina. I am happy to say the food
is still great.
I had
Shrimp and Grits with a Tasso and Leek Gravy and my friend had Grillades and
Grits, of course we traded tastes and both were excellent. I regret to say this
place is now on the tourist map and there is always a wait. I am pleased to say
the wait is worth it.
I do
not recall what I ate later that day so I've no place to recommend nor to warn
you against. The truly bad is always memorable. I suspect I had oysters as I
had them each day of my trip. Oysters are always good, but the preparation is
not always memorable.
Sunday
morning I was up VERY early and took a walk through the quarter while they
cleaned up. All of the streets are swept and washed daily, despite the
plentiful garbage cans people can be pigs, and often are.
Nothing
was open save the Clover Grill, despite the claims of 'best' I went in. How bad
could breakfast be?
The
waitress cheery, the coffee good and I sat waiting for my biscuits and gravy.
What arrived was a sad, hard biscuit topped with a gravy flavored less with
sausage, as is custom and tasting mostly of salt. I ate a bit of it, and it was
memorable. Memorably bad. I suspect they rely on the customers being drunk at
their location and 24 hour status attest to that. Do not eat at Clover when
sober.
No comments:
Post a Comment